11-Days in Southern Italy: Puglia, Basilicata, Campania

Spring is an ideal season to explore Italy, with its pleasant temperatures, blossoming trees and flowers, and less overwhelming tourist crowds. We organized our Italian trip this year to mark two significant milestones: our son Cormac's final year of high school and my 60th birthday. It was a complete family journey, as our three adult children accompanied us. Cormac was given the privilege of selecting the destination, and he chose Southern Italy, largely due to his love for Italian cuisine.

We focused on exploring 'new to us' regions—Puglia and Basilicata, in the heel of Italy’s “boot”—and wrapped up by returning to Salerno as our base for visiting ancient Roman and Greek ruins. Given the places we wanted to reach, renting a car made the most sense for this trip, though we typically prefer train travel in Europe.

Itinerary

We spent 11 nights in Italy (not counting travel days). With a few minor adjustments, here’s what we’d now call our ideal itinerary for Southern Italy, flying in and out of Naples:

• 1 night in Benevento

• 3 nights in Alberobello (or another base in Puglia)

• 2 nights in Matera

• 3 nights in Salerno

• 2 nights in Naples (we only had 1 and wished we’d stayed longer)

If you’re working with a 10-night limit, we recommend cutting one night from Salerno.

Arrival and Benevento

After our overnight flight, we wanted to keep driving to a minimum. We made a quick detour to Caserta for pizza at I Masanielli (a regular on lists of the best pizzerias in the world), followed by a stop to admire the Aqueduct of Vanvitelli (or Caroline Aqueduct)—a towering 18th-century marvel of three-tiered arches. This engineering gem serves the Royal Palace of Caserta-- which would have been a great stop if it weren't for the pouring rain.

From there, we continued to Benevento, a small, lesser-known town that was a delightful surprise. Highlights included the Arch of Trajan, a remarkably well-preserved Roman gateway from 114 AD, and the remains of a Roman theatre. The town is also steeped in witch-related folklore - a curious theme we’d encounter again later on the trip. Hint: The witches all get burned on Easter weekend.

Into Puglia – Bari, Polignano a Mare, and Alberobello

Under clear blue skies, we crossed into Puglia, stopping first in the coastal city of Bari. Its old town is perfect for wandering, and we were especially excited to visit Pasta Nonna Alley—a narrow street where local grandmothers famously hand-shape orecchiette pasta. Unfortunately, since it was a Sunday, several bakeries were closed. Still, we sampled some of the region’s iconic street foods:

• A cone of fritto misto (mixed fried seafood)

• Crispy, tomato-topped focaccia

• Creamy gelato

Verdict: Definitely worth a visit—especially on a sunny day like we had.

From there, we continued to the postcard-perfect town of Polignano a Mare, perched dramatically on cliffs above the Adriatic. We strolled the cobbled lanes and soaked in the views before enjoying more street food—this time, panzerotti, a local favorite that Kevin couldn’t stop raving about. Hey - they are quite tasty.

That evening, we arrived in Alberobello, known for its unique trulli—whitewashed stone huts with conical roofs. The town’s hillside district is packed with these whimsical buildings (as well as tourists and souvenir shops). Instead of staying in the town center, we booked a beautifully restored trullo set among olive trees just a few miles away—an idyllic retreat. Pro tip: booking directly with the owner (instead of through Airbnb) can save you money, but it will require a wire transfer versus easier payment through Airbnb.

Originally planned as a 3-night stay, we spent 4 nights at Trulli Salamida due to a brief family-wide encounter with a stomach bug (bring extra Immodium!). We all felt it would be better to be near a bathroom instead of inside a car.

Exploring Puglia

From Alberobello, we explored several of Puglia’s charming hill towns. Ostuni, Locorotondo, Cisternino, and Martina Franca each offered picturesque streets, whitewashed buildings, and sweeping countryside views. We also ventured farther south to Lecce, known as the “Florence of the South,” famed for its rich Baroque architecture and lively historic center.

If you're short on time, we recommend prioritizing Ostuni, Locorotondo, and Martina Franca. While each village has its own charm, they start to blend together visually after a few visits, so no need to overdo it.

Basilicata – The Timeless Allure of Matera

Matera is truly unlike any other place in Italy—or the world. This ancient city, carved into limestone cliffs, is famous for its Sassi districts, a network of cave dwellings and rock-cut churches continuously inhabited for thousands of years. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its ingenious water capture and management systems, Matera has seen a remarkable transformation from a poverty-stricken past to a celebrated cultural destination.

While we originally planned two days here, we only had one due to our unexpected flu detour—definitely not enough. Matera deserves at least two full days to take in its unique atmosphere, explore the cave churches, and enjoy the golden glow of the city at sunset. We recommend doing a guided tour to hear the stories and history from a local. We stayed in an amazing Airbnb here too--3 bedrooms, 2 baths and wonderful view to the gorge.

A Culinary Highlight: Cooking in the Basilicata Countryside

One of the standout moments of our entire trip was a cooking class with Greg and Silvia just outside Matera. Offered through Matera Cooking Class | Italian Cooking Experience, this five-hour experience began with a tour of their working farm and ended with an unforgettable homemade meal.

Silvia guided us in making fresh pasta and regional dishes, while Greg shared stories about local traditions and sustainable farming. The food was exceptional, the setting idyllic, and the whole experience deeply personal and enriching. This was a major highlight of our time in Southern Italy—highly recommended!

Salerno: A Refreshingly Real Coastal City

While most travelers flock to Positano or Amalfi, we chose to stay in Salerno, a lively working city that feels much more authentic than its glossier neighbors. It offered a practical and enjoyable base for our excursions to:

• Paestum, with its stunning Greek temples and ancient ruins

• Amalfi Coast villages, reached via scenic ferry rides

We visited Amalfi and Positano, but found both overwhelmed by tourists. In hindsight, we wish we’d explored some of the smaller, lesser-known coastal towns instead—something we’d recommend for future travelers looking to experience a quieter side of the Amalfi Coast.

Pompeii

No matter how many photos or documentaries you’ve seen, Pompeii is awe-inspiring in person. Walking through the preserved streets of this ancient Roman city, frozen in time by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, is both humbling and fascinating. It’s an easy day trip from either Salerno or Naples—and absolutely worth it.

Naples: Grit, Energy, and Authenticity

We ended our trip in Naples, and immediately wished we had more time there. Yes, it’s gritty, chaotic, and a bit rough around the edges—but it’s also vibrant, genuine, and full of life. The food is incredible (it is the birthplace of pizza, after all), and the city pulses with a raw, unfiltered energy that’s hard to resist.

Next time, we’ll be sure to spend at least two nights exploring Naples' rich history, art, and culinary scene. Pro tip: You might be tempted - as Kevin was - to try the Maradona Spritz a a sickly sweet blue concoction named after Diego Maradona, Napoli's nearly sainted adopted son. Stick with a negroni or aperol spritz. Trust me.

Travel Tips for Southern Italy (Especially for Families or Groups)

• Book Lodging Early—Really Early

  If you're traveling with a larger group (like our family of five adults), start to look for accommodations at least 9 months in advance. It may sound excessive, but the best places—especially those with multiple bedrooms and two bathrooms—get scooped up quickly. We used Airbnb with flexible cancellation policies, which gave us peace of mind in case plans shifted.

  
  

• Pack for Cooler Evenings—Even in Spring

  While we were ready for spring, the locals were still wearing full winter coats—and for good reason. Much of Italian life revolves around sitting outdoors, whether you're sipping a spritz at happy hour or lingering over dinner. I wish I had brought a heavier, lined raincoat, which would have been perfect for the cooler evenings and light drizzle. Layers are key!

  
  

• Car Rental for Five Adults: Choose Carefully

  Renting a car was essential for the itinerary we chose, but space was a challenge. We upgraded to a 7-seater vehicle, hoping for more legroom, but found the back two seats were only suitable for toddlers. We made it work by folding down part of the second row to let the back passenger stretch their legs, though it made getting in and out awkward. Not perfect, but worth it for the extra breathing room.

  
  

• Download the EasyPark App Before You Go

  Parking in Italy can be frustrating, especially if you're trying to figure out the quirks of each pay machine (they all look alike but work slightly differently). The EasyPark app was a game-changer. It lets us pay and extend parking directly from our phones, saving time and avoiding parking tickets. Highly recommended for anyone planning to drive.

  
  

• Communication with Hosts: Be Prepared

  Most of our Airbnb hosts spoke little English, even though messages in the app made it seem otherwise (thanks to built-in translation). I started sending all messages in both English and Italian, using a translator app. It helped a lot. Kevin’s ability to speak Italian was also incredibly valuable.

  
  

• One important note: you must arrange a check-in time in advance, even with Airbnb or small hotels. Hosts need to meet you in person to collect passport details for all guests (a legal requirement in Italy). This can be a bit tricky when you're traveling and want flexibility in your daily plans, so be sure to build in a buffer for check-ins.