Banff and the Canadian Rockies: Worth the Crowds?
Who isn’t mesmerized by the turquoise lakes and jagged, snow-covered peaks of the Canadian Rockies? The scenery is so spectacular it almost doesn't seem real. It is truly magnificent.
But don’t expect a peaceful experience communing with nature—at least not at the most popular spots. Tour buses arrive by the dozens, parking lots fill up early, and securing a coveted shuttle seat to Lake Louise or Moraine Lake can be surprisingly difficult. In 2025, Banff National Park welcomed a record 4.5 million visitors. And at times, it feels like they're all visiting the same places you are!
Still, the beauty is awe-inspiring, and I’m glad to have finally checked Banff off my bucket list. Would I recommend it? Absolutely. But I’d suggest spending more time at the less-visited lakes and trails. Bow Lake, Peyto Lake, and Emerald Lake were certainly busy, but without the frenetic energy of Lake Louise and Moraine Lake. And frankly, they were every bit as beautiful and much easier to enjoy with a little elbow room.
Would I even consider skipping Moraine Lake? Perhaps, and I know that might sound crazy!
Navigating the Canadian National Parks
One thing that surprised me about the Canadian Rockies was how seamlessly the national parks flow into one another. On our campervan trip, we traveled through Glacier (Canada's, not Montana's), Yoho, Banff, and Jasper National Parks, often without realizing when we had crossed from one into another. The only reason I know the picture above was in Glacier is the tag that appears on my photo. I don't remember seeing any signs for Glacier NP!
Unlike Yellowstone or many U.S. national parks, where you pass through an entrance gate, pay your fee, and receive a park map, the experience here was much less defined. Major highways run right through the parks, and sometimes there’s little or no indication that you've entered one.
Because we visited in late September and early October, we didn't encounter staffed entrance stations. We purchased our park pass online, printed it, and displayed it on the dashboard as required. It was checked only once during our trip, and we never received a park map. Fortunately, Becky had visited several times, so her knowledge was just as useful!
Camping in the Canadian Rockies
Hotel and lodge prices in the Canadian Rockies can be eye-popping, but camping is an economical way to visit the parks and be immersed in nature. During the busy season, you'll want to book well in advance. We were visiting at the tail end of the camping season, so we were able to make reservations just days ahead.
Most campgrounds close by early to mid-October, although a few remain open year-round. Check the Parks Canada website for current dates and availability.
I was particularly happy to be sleeping in a campervan, as nighttime temperatures dipped into the low 20s (°F). We were visiting at the very end of fall and beginning of winter, with some snow already on the ground. Just days after we left, the area received significant snowfall.
Two Jack Lakeside Campground — 5/5 stars
We stayed at Two Jack Lakeside for two nights and were very impressed with its peaceful setting on the shores of Two Jack Lake, with its clear, turquoise water and mountain backdrop. It was a wonderful respite and proximity to the Town of Banff was convenient.
The campground also offers something called oTENTiks, a cross between an A-frame cabin and a prospector tent, mounted on a raised wooden platform. They have beds, electricity, and a deck, and can accommodate five or six people. At around $150 CAD per night, these could be an interesting option for travelers who don't want to haul camping equipment, especially if you're flying to the area.
Lake Louise Hard-Sided Campground — 3/5 stars
Despite the name, Lake Louise Campground isn't actually next to the lake. It's near the village of Lake Louise, about 6 km from the lake itself. As a first-time visitor, I found that a little confusing!
We stayed here for one night primarily because of its convenient location for accessing the Lake Louise and Moraine Lake shuttles, which depart from the Park and Ride at the Lake Louise Ski Resort.
The campsites for campervans and RVs aren't particularly appealing. They're arranged in pairs, with very little space between neighbors. For us, it didn't matter much, as it was raining that evening and we spent most of our time inside the van. On the plus side, the campground had decent bathrooms and showers. It served its purpose, but wasn't a place I'd choose for the setting.
Mosquito Creek Campground — 5/5 stars
Becky had the insider scoop on this first-come, first-served campground along the Icefields Parkway, just south of Bow Lake.
We snagged a gorgeous site with mountain views and a creek just outside our van. It was one of my favorite places we stayed. There were no showers, just a vault toilet, but who needs fancy facilities with scenery like this?
It was chilly enough that we kept the van door closed overnight, but waking up surrounded by the mountains made up for it.
What to Pack for a Fall Visit
Late September and early October can be very chilly in the Canadian Rockies, with nighttime temperatures in the 20s (°F) and daytime highs in the 50s.
I'd skip the shorts and make sure to pack a warm hat, gloves or mittens, and a packable down jacket. Layers are key, as the weather can change quickly.
One thing I wish we'd brought was a pair of microspikes to slip over our hiking shoes. Some of the trails were already icy, and these would have made hiking much easier. We did bring hiking poles, which were helpful on the slippery sections.
We didn't carry bear spray, although we saw plenty of hikers who did. Parks Canada recommends carrying it when hiking.
We didn't see much large wildlife—no moose, bears, or elk, birds and a few mule deer. We did hear that a grizzly bear and her cubs were frequently spotted around Two Jack Campground, but the closest we got was seeing the ranger's photo!
Favorite Stops and Hikes
If you follow the typical list of "must-see" sights in the Canadian Rockies, you'll likely find yourself fighting the same crowds as everyone else. My advice is to pick a few places that interest you most, but stay flexible depending on the weather, your energy level, and the crowds you encounter.
This is by no means an exhaustive list of things to see in the Canadian Rockies, just a selection of places we visited and enjoyed.
Emerald Lake — A Favorite!
Located in Yoho National Park, Emerald Lake was one of my favorites and perhaps it was because this was our first stop and first encounter with the enchantingly turquoise lakes of this area. We walked along the north side of the lake, where we had gorgeous views of the water, red canoes, lakeside lodge, and surrounding mountains. It's a beautiful place to wander and enjoy the scenery.
Bow Lake
Another favorite! We walked the path along the lake, taking in the views of the surrounding mountains. I'd also recommend stopping at the lodge for a hot drink and a Swedish kanelbulle (cinnamon bun). Not a bad way to warm up on a chilly day.
Peyto Lake and Bow Summit Hike
The main viewpoint overlooking Peyto Lake was busy, but the viewing platform is well-designed, with railings that keep visitors on the designated paths.
We continued beyond the main viewpoint on the Bow Summit trail, roughly four miles round-trip, with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains and Bow Lake. There was some ice and snow near the top, but the majority of the trail was fine.
It's worth going beyond the main viewpoint if you have the time and energy.
Athabasca Glacier
We stopped at the visitor center for a snack and walked toward the glacier. It was chilly and incredibly windy!
There are several options for guided tours that take you out onto the glacier, but living in Minnesota, I'm not particularly excited about paying big bucks to walk on ice.
What I did find fascinating—and rather sobering—were the markers showing how far the glacier extended in previous years. It's shocking to see how quickly it has receded.
Icefields Parkway
The drive along the Icefields Parkway is an attraction in itself. In fall, the brilliant yellow leaves of the aspens and larches against the snow-covered mountains made for spectacular scenery. Leave plenty of time for stops along the way, because you'll want to pull over often.
Cave and Basin National Historic Site
This is where Canada's national park system began, and it's worth a stop for both its natural and cultural history. It's also a good stop for a rainy day.
The site includes a cave with a thermal spring, walking trails, and exhibits. Because it was raining, we skipped the trails and instead explored an exhibit about Canada's internment camps before visiting the cave and thermal springs.
It was an interesting break from lakes and mountain scenery, with an opportunity to learn more about Canada's history.
Town of Banff
Banff is full of shops, restaurants, and souvenirs. Like many beautiful mountain towns, it caters heavily to tourists.
But we enjoyed our stop, especially Three Bears Brewing, where we shared a delicious elk sausage and kale pizza while listening to some good live music. We both agreed this was an excellent place to stop.
Lake Louise
Lake Louise is undeniably beautiful, although busy with visitors taking photos in front of the iconic Fairmont Château Lake Louise.
We enjoyed it much more once we walked along the wide lakeside trail, getting farther away from the hotel and the crowds. It's a good reminder that sometimes you only need to walk a little farther to have a much better experience.
Moraine Lake — Beautiful, But Is It Worth the Hassle?
Of all the places we visited, Moraine Lake felt the most overwhelmed by tourists. Tour buses, large groups, and crowds of people all seemed to converge on the same spots, particularly the famous Rockpile viewpoint.
The stairs to the Rockpile were icy, and the line was backed up. Some people were impatient and trying to go around or getting too close to each other and nearly pushing. Many people fell on the way down, creating a dangerous situation.
Once at the Rockpile viewpoint, it was not only the crowds that were annoying, but the fact that so many people ignored the signs and jumped over the wall to hang out on the rocks closer to the lake. Thus, every photo needs those people erased from the edge. It's really too bad there wasn't a park ranger to help manage the chaos in this area-----but it's sad that bad behavior like this is even a problem.
We hiked partway up the switchback trail toward Larch Valley, hoping to escape some of the crowds, but it was quite busy there as well. The larches were already past their peak yellow color, but the scenery was still lovely.
Moraine Lake is undeniably stunning, and I understand why everyone wants to see it. But considering the difficulty of getting there and the sheer number of visitors, I wouldn't necessarily put it at the top of my list.
Is Banff Worth the Crowds?
The Canadian Rockies are magnificent and awe-inspiring, but they're certainly no secret. Those gorgeous Instagram photos have inspired travelers from around the world to visit, including plenty of people in search of the perfect selfie.
I'm glad we went, and I would absolutely recommend experiencing this part of the world. But my favorite moments weren't necessarily at the famous destinations. They were at the quieter lakes, along the Icefields Parkway, and at a campsite surrounded by mountains.
My advice? Do your research, plan ahead for the popular destinations, but leave room for exploring beyond the usual must-see list. You might find, as we did, that some of the most memorable places aren't the ones everyone is rushing to see.
For helpful tips on navigating the parks and avoiding crowds, I found TravelEaz's YouTube guide particularly useful. This guy has a lot of knowledge of the area and is not just a one-time visitor like many travel vloggers.
Comments